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and awe, that is Algonquin Park. A paradise for canoeists and nature lovers, this graceful land, punctuated and defined by rivers, lakes and ponds, is waving itself for discovery. Many times have we wandered its forests and islands, many times, charmed, even scared by its endless waters and hidden aquatic mysteries, but never tired of paddling along the lush shores, never longing for more solitude – for more would not be possible... We were embraced by water, we were convinced by the sky and advised by the wind. From the acute loon’s cry to the unforgettable, vibrant wolves’ call, from the softness of beaches to the mosquitoes’ flutter, all sounds and shades come into place naturally, colors last until next minute, then move again; so do the clouds. So does our canoe. The complex living net is so tangible here, and wet!
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More than a thousand lakes connected by portages, canals and rivers are shaping for our devotion. This land’s map should be read in waters – an alphabet whose letters: Clara, Opeongo, Misty, Welcome are names of lakes - clear enough.
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I am different on water, I love it more and fear it deeper. The happy islands or green marshes here and there comfort me briefly... The omni-present pines, often contorted and artsy, remind me that solid land is at reach, just few more paddles away.
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The foggy, cool sunrises of Algonquin vivify me, their gift of allowing me to remember my last night’s dreams is not little. The lake, with its unforgiving freshness, is a handy “shower”! |
Our Kevlar canoe is resting upside down on the beach, left to drain since last night. I bet there must be some spiders already moved under. My husband is checking his fishing rod a few yards away, maybe we could, after all, have trout for breakfast again... I smile mischievously, plunge and scare all “his” fish away. Uhhh, the lake is truly refreshing and swimming naked is a rare escape I could not refuse my self today.
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The rich, colorful sunsets invite us for a cozy wood fire by the very private campsite. It is all ours tonight…ok, ok, and maybe some bear or moose could claim its fruit crop, at a distance.
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Again, the loon is saying “good night”, so we can sleep peacefully, together. My husband is never closer to me than here, we seem to be two lost, essential beings in this primordial Water Universe. The nights can be very, very dark and leafy, the wind can be too strong and waves, indeed too noisy. Some other nights, though, could boast billions of stars or even the arctic lights of the North.
Why should we ever go back? To what? For what?
FACTS
The Algonquin Provincial Park of Southern Ontario, Canada, is one of the best hopes for maintaining some of the old, vigorous forests of the past. With its more than 7,700 square kilometers, Algonquin sits in a transition zone between southern deciduous forests and northern coniferous forests. While the western part has richer soils due to glacial deposits, and displays greener lakeshores, the eastern side tends to have less rainfall and poorer soils – reflected in the sandy beaches and pine forests. The heart of Algonquin is its great interior of maple hills, spruce bogs, rocky shores, and endless rivers, lakes and ponds – all to be explored only by canoe or foot. Vistas are stunning !
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This rugged land of waters is one of the best places in North America for seeing moose. They are usually unperturbed by human presence.
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Black bears, white-tailed deer, otters, timber wolves, beavers, hundreds of species of birds are some of the many inhabitants of Algonquin. The common loons, the most famous bird of the park, ply every lake. The park is also known as one of the best trout fishing places in Canada. Well over 1,000 species of plants and another 1,000 or more species of fungi grow in the Park.
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"Anyone who has been to Algonquin Park will be disappointed when they get to heaven!" – said Ralph Bice (long-time Park guide), and I can only agree.
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Spring in Algonquin is a delight, Summer is awesome, Fall is fantastic and Winter – so much fun. There is something for everybody – over 1,500 kilometers of canoe routes, numerous backpacking, biking, snowshoeing and cross-country skiing trails await for the eager adventurer. There are numerous entry points around the park, as well as outfitting services where canoes and other necessary equipment can be rented or purchased. The Algonquin Visitor Center is a must, at least for the first-time visitor. A detailed map of the park, absolutely required for the interior travel, is to be found here, and camp reservations should be also made in advance at the entry points or the Visitor Center. The canoeist should plan, choose among the many possibilities or have an idea where (on what lake shore or island) would the interior camping be for any given day. There are numerous interior and exterior campsites, some on rocky islands, some on fine sandy beaches. To travel from lake to lake, or river or bog, one should be ready for crossing portages (stretches of land between water ways) carrying the canoe, usually upside down on one’s shoulders. Some rivers are “paddling and portaging”, depending on the season and water level. It goes without saying that one should have at least some good experience in canoeing – from the strokes to the canoe care and loading.
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Equipment and food should be light and smart. Cans and bottles are banned in the park, for good reasons. Freeze-dried and dehydrated meals are most recommended here. |
Insect repellent is vital in early Spring and Summer, good wilderness manners – always. Some survival skills, compass, first-aid kit, a rope are among the smart things one should carry on. Any food or scented item should be well packed, away from the tent, and high off the ground, hanged safely and skillfully on a tree during the night. Hiding the food under the canoe will not do!
Just a few words about possible unforgivable mistakes and wise thoughts in Algonquin:
- one should not step on a canoe resting on land, the safe return to the civilization depends on its integrity. Life jackets are compulsory.
- the food, garbage, scented objects should be secured from wildlife, or one risks a close encounter with bears or forced fasting for days - if stranded in the middle of the park.
- mosquitoes can be really hungry and aggressive – insect repellent is a must, while an itch relief could be very handy.
- there is no pharmacy in the park interior, better carry a reliable first-aid kit and personal medication, don’t forget to pack and water-proof them when canoeing.
- large and small plastic bags could be very useful in wrapping clothes, sleeping bags, food and others, while canoeing. The protection goes against rain or in case of ...big waves.
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A trip into the wild soul of Algonquin Park is truly an unforgettable experience. Be prepared for wonder, calm solitude and beauty. Every lake is different, every beach has its own personality, while rivers can be tumultuous or lascivious at times. The loon song is thrilling, while the wolves mournful voices are piercing the night.
Have a wild experience!
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